So, the plan today is to get into Laos. We only have three days left on our visa, so we’re really hoping the plan works.

Once again, the border crossing we’ve chosen is pretty much in the middle of nowhere, especially on the Laos side, where there’s 50km of national park before you hit anything remotely resembling civilisation. Our research has uncovered little in the way of people cycling this stretch, and to cycle right through to Attapeu (120km west) looks very ambitious indeed, especially given the remoteness and hilly terrain in the national park.

So instead, we opt for transport. We’re ready and waiting, as instructed, at 8am, for the ‘minibus’ to turn up. Instead of an official minibus, which would have costed 400,000 VND, we are getting on a Ford Transit van doing a border crossing run to take supplies of petrol, liquid gas and other goods into Laos.

When we climb in and get moving, at about 9.45am (the driver clearly operates on Laos time) we have the van to ourselves, but we feel sure it won’t last. We’re right… by the time we finally leave Ngoc Hoi there are no less than 17 people crammed into the front three rows of seats (the rest of the space taken up by cargo), including five guys squeezed into the driver’s seating area alone! It’s a minor miracle the van even moves, but move it does, all the way to the border.

Crossing into Laos is just fine. We have to pay our visa fee (35 US dollars each) all over again, and a small ‘tourist’ fee of about 12,000 Kip, which seems cheeky, but what can you do? It takes about 15 minutes, and thankfully our 15 travelling companions wait for us patiently.

We then bump our way through the national park to the sound of Vietpop (with some distinctly Pet Shop Boys and Abba influences) blaring out, as the driver chain smokes and chucks his fag ends into the tinder-dry forest. He has an unnerving habit of taking blind corners on the wrong side of the road, but thankfully we don’t meet any of the huge timber-carrying juggernauts coming the other way. It’s sad to see all the timber waiting at the border to cross into Vietnam; you can only hope Laos’ forests are being well managed and corruption/lure of the dollar isn’t getting the better of those in charge of protecting it.

At the edge of the protected area, maybe 50km into Laos, there’s a small frontier settlement, not marked on any maps. If you’re thinking of cycling this way, there is a small guesthouse here (and another, about 20km further on towards Attapeu), and there are also a couple of small food shops inside the protected area itself.

This is where all the Vietnamese guys get off. We assume they must be in the logging business. The van then parks up and the driver signals for us to get out and wait in a shaded area with some mats to sit on. This we obediantly do, while the van then drives into a nearby courtyard, and a gate is shut and locked behind it. We then wait, and wait, and wait a bit more while bemused locals gawp at us, although to be fair, they’re all friendly. After around two hours, the van emerges, with most of its old cargo now gone and replaced with new cargo to take back to Vietnam.  After a quick lunch in a small Vietnamese style eat shop (rice with food on top), we’re finally on our way again.

Without his heavy load of passengers and petrol, the driver puts his foot down, and we bomb along the mostly empty roads. It’s hard to know what speed we’re going at, but it definitely feels too fast given the likelihood of cows, dogs and other animals wandering onto the road. The van then stops again in a small place we assume to be Attapeu but, according to our GPS and maps.me app, we’re still 13km away. It turns out this is as far as the van is going, and we have to cycle the rest. We’re hardly surprised (welcome back to Laos!) and, given the dangerous speed he was going at, we’re kind of relieved to be able to cycle the last bit. It’s dead flat and only takes us around half an hour, meaning we finally role into Attapeu at about 4pm – just a little bit later than expected!

It’s a bigger town than we expected and, after checking out some of the accommodation options near the river, we head back to the main road and take a room in a small, family-run guesthouse opposite the not-quite-finished shopping centre for 60,000 Kip, with no internet and, as it turns out, no hot water either, but it’s now so hot this isn’t such an issue. Our bikes are stored in the family’s front room so, for once, we don’t feel the need to lock them together.

For some reason we both feel knackered, despite only cycling 13km. The main thing is that we’ve made it back into Laos, and it’s just as we remember it; friendly, a little quieter than Vietnam, and with better food than it’s given credit for. We’ve missed you, Laos (and yes, we were two-timing you with Vietnam!)

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