85.9km (5.9km looking for accommodation!), av 16.4, max 47.1km, time on bikes: 5hrs 13 mins
And so it begins, again. After yesterday’s 39km warm-up ride to Thuan An beach, on Sunday we set off south, heading towards Hoi An.
We’re a little apprehensive about cycling on the infamous 2,000km Route 1, but there’s no way around it. The previous evening, at Cafe on Thu Wheels, we met a Swiss guy who says the trains south are booked up until March (Tet returnees), and we’d really hate to do this leg of the trip by bus, so instead we decide to go for it.
We plan the day’s route via the coast as much as possible, via Route 10A and 10B to Vinh Thanh, and then along the perninsular and over a vast bridge on Route 577 until it eventually, inevitably, joins with Route 1A.
The first part of the journey is really great cycling, firstly through rice fields, and then through a bizarre landscape of ‘dunes and tombs’ (as Lonely Planet describes it) – mile upon mile of family tombs. It’s mostly flat, the road is paved, and it’s always interesting. Although close to the sea, we don’t catch a glimpse of it today until the majestic, empty bridge crossing over to the more hilly Other Side.
We then start to see km marker stones counting down to the dreaded ROUTE 1. After waiting for a train to cross the level crossing (while eating what we joke may be our last meal, a whole packet of Crema-O biscuits – what a send off!) we don our helmets then hang a left and join the highway. Immediately, it starts climbing and the hard shoulder deserts us, but the traffic isn’t *too* bad and pretty soon we’re feeling OK about the whole thing.
As usual, there’s everything from kids on bicycles to juggernauts and kamakazee coaches on the road, so we feel at least like we’re not an oddity or danger on the road, as we definitely would if you attempted to cycle on, say, the M25.
After about 20km of this, mostly against a stiff headwind, we make it in one piece to Lang Co, a small but usefully located coastal strip of a town just before the Hai Van pass, with a pretty lake on one side, and a golden beach on the other. In other words, a perfect place to overnight.
There are lots of accommodation options and, predictably, we go for the cheapest we can find – essentially, a room in someone’s house, for 150,000 VND. The guy (a photographer) is very friendly though, and gives us each a face mask for the next leg of our journey…
We have a (for us) relatively early start and, after a peppery bowl of Pho (noodle soup) for breakfast, we’re on our way by about 10am. The Hai Van pass is said to mark the climatic border between North and South Vietnam, and also has a military history. More recently, Top Gear apparently labelled the coastal hill pass one of the most scenic in Vietnam, if not the world. There’s a spectacular railway pass too, but sadly no-one in Vietnam’s tourism department has yet had the idea of running tourist trains between Hue and Danang to make the most of it. Happily, there’s now a road tunnel too, which takes most of the traffic, leaving just scooters, mad cyclists and tourist buses on the pass itself.
The climb out of Lang Co is steady but not too steep. There are sections of 8% inclines, along with some flatter bits and, although it is hard work, it’s not impossible and we don’t have to walk any of it, despite the heat. As we go up, the view of Lang Co bay unfolds spectacularly, as motorbikes go whizzing past, many riders yelling ‘hello’ or giving the peace symbol which the kids just can’t get enough of here.
A tactical coke break just before the summit allows us to arrive at the top looking relatively fresh-faced. We even have enough water on board not to have to buy any from the expensive vendors stationed there. The view from the top is pretty good, but improves still further as we head away from all the tourist buses and down the other side. It really is spectacular, especially on this cloud-free day, stretching all the way to Da Nang. The descent, at times marked 10%, is fantastic.
Before we know it we are riding alongside a white sandy beach, just ahead of Da Nang, and the temptation to take a dip is too great to resist. We park up our bikes beneath a bemused lifeguard and run into the calm, azure sea in our cycling gear! Too good!!
Apart from a quick pause for lunch, we cruise through Da Nang, which looks very modern and plush, but without too much in the way of soul. It’s a fast growing city and is establishing itself as a luxury beach resort destination, which means a lot of the coastline is off limits to commoners like us.
We also cruise past Marble Mountain (pausing only for a quick photo of the marble monstrosities on sale), apparently a popular tourist attraction. Where we do pause for much longer is a super-cute bike cafe we chance upon on the Trurong Sa road, called Le Velo. It’s front terrace is adorned with bikes and even tables made out of bike wheels, so we have to stop! We get chatting to the owner, Hue Le, who shares her ‘cycling manifesto’ with us – to get more people, especially women, cycling in Vietnam. We’re hugely impressed, plus the smoothies are great too! Hue interviews us about our travels, so it will be fun, or probably cringeworthy, to see how that turns out on YouTube…
From Le Velo, it’s about another 10km of flat, straight road to Hoi An, and it’s starting to get dark (thanks to all the unplanned stops!) We head into town and are shocked at the accommodation prices offered to us, and in US dollars all of a sudden. $20 for a dingy room, sir?!? No way are we paying that! We eventually take a room above a cafe for $10. The hot water’s broken but we’re so hot, and the room’s so hot, that we don’t even care, because it’s been such a great day’s cycling.