21/1/15: Nong Tang to Phonsavan (50km, av. 17 km/hr, max 46.1km/hr, time on bikes: 3hrs)

After yesterday, it’s VERY tempting to stay a day at the lake – it’s so peaceful here. Also (we later discover) there are some very cool caves filled with Buddha statues just a few minutes away.

By contrast though, today we enjoy a nice easy ride; it’s relatively flat and we even have a bit of a tailwind.

There’s also a noticeable change of scenery, as lush forest and valleys give way to flatter, parched land cleared for cattle ranching and, by the looks of it, new settlements.

The day is also memorable for being stung by a wasp (not fun), and lunching just outside Phonsavan, at a place where we first notice old bombs being used as cutlery and building materials (but forget to photograph…)

We arrive in Phonsavan early afternoon (for a pleasant change) and check in at Kong Keo Guesthouse (60,000 kip), where we later hear fireside tales from fellow travellers, mostly on motorbikes but one other guy is on a bike and had the same accommodation issue as us in Namchat.

Dinner is at the best Indian in town, Nisha, then a drink (wine!) in Bamboozle Bar, run by a friendly Scot, taking advantage of the good wifi to read reviews of it on tripadvisor where people rave about the good wifi… how very post-modern.

Relatively early night although somewhere in this strange town it sounds like there’s a rave going on!

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